Beginnings – Chapters 1-5
- It was September 1964 and we were on our way up Mt. Adams, a stately, 12,276-foot volcano in southern Washington.
- I was an out-of -shape 19-year-old girl from the flatlands wearing borrowed boots and pack. As we headed up, I began breathing so loudly that my companions wondered if I would make it out of the parking lot.
- As we continued slowly and steadily up the mountain, my body adapted to the unaccustomed exertion, and I began to feel centered and strong.
- Ahead of us was an icefield sliced by long, narrow chasms with walls of blue and green ice — crevasses. It was the most gorgeous place I'd ever been.
- I sank onto a comfortable rock below the summit of Mt Adams exhausted but content. Right here were the peace and space I'd always craved.
- My first glissade was memorable. Down, down, down I flew for thousands of feet. At first the rough, frozen snow felt cold and uncomfortable beneath me, but soon I didn't feel a thing as the small pebbles in the frozen snow abraded away my thin wool trousers and more.
- As I lay on my stomach in the infirmary, I dreamed of glaciers and my attempt on Mt. Adams, the best day of my life.
- I knew the mountains were where I belonged.
- Five months later, on February 2, 1965, I climbed to the top of Mt Hood, my first mountain summit. I wanted to sing, to dance, and most of all, to hug John.
- John Hall had first reached the summit of Mt. Hood several years earlier. He broke trail through knee-deep untrodden powder snow to reach the top.
- And that wonderful spring, I did become a climber.
- John and I climbed Mt. Shuksan.
- We ascended Mt. Hood and Mt. St. Helens by ever more challenging routes
- With every climb, I learned more about finding a route through a crevassed glacier, how to read the weather, when to go on and when to turn back.
- Every summit was a miracle to me.
- Crossing a gulley on the Wy'east route on Mt. Hood, we saw huge boulders thundering toward us. Somehow, we weren't hit. John gave thanks when we reached the top safely.
- Both climbing and chemistry opened new worlds for me. Dr. Jane Shell was a brilliant young chemistry professor at Reed. Following her example, all four of the girls in our freshman chemistry class went on to obtain PhD's in chemistry.
- Collecting and analyzing volcanic gases was a perfect topic for my senior thesis, combining both my interests. A change in the gas composition can signal an imminent eruption.
- I climbed Mt. Hood to collect fumarole gases from the summit crater with Dr. Fred Ayres, the chemistry professor who was my thesis advisor and mountaineering mentor.
- In December of 1965, John Hall and I attempted Popocatapetl volcano near Mexico City, the fifth highest peak in North America.
- After reaching the 17,800 foot high top of Popocatapetl, an altitude record for me, John and I collected volcanic gases from the steaming summit crater.
- Then we crossed the valley to attempt Ixtaccihuatl, the seventh highest peak in North America.
- The following year John and I organized an expedition to the Peruvian Andes. First, Paul Pennington and I trekked and climbed near Huancayo and the Inca capital of Cuzco.
- Everywhere we went we were welcomed by the local indigenous people who generously shared with us the little food and drink they had.
- It didn't take long for us to understand the Indians' place as a conquered people in their previous empire.
- John and I trekked toward El Misti, the volcano where he'd collected gases.
- Then, we headed to the Quebrada Llanganuca, a canyon northeast of Lima.
- Our 1967 expedition to the Peruvian Andes got together in Juaras. From the left: Peter Schindler, John Hall, Bill Ross, and Paul Pennington in front of Huascaran. I'm the photographer.
- On our descent from Yanapaccha Norte, Peter fell down a steep gully and broke both his ankles. No one had ever been hurt on one of my trips before, and the way a small error could snowball into a potentially lethal catastrophe was sobering.
- For 36 exhausting hours, we took turns carrying the stretcher across the rough mountain terrain.
- While Peter and Bill went to Lima, we attempted Pisco at 19,000 feet. The crux was to cross the crevasse just below the summit. John ran through the treacle-like snow, jumped,
- and barely made it across.
- Bill Ross returned from Lima with the news that Peter was recovering and had returned home.
- With only a few days left to climb 21,000-foot Chopiqualqui, we decided to carry double loads to save time.
- John found a route amidst the seracs in the Chopiqualqui icefall.
- Getting safely over a large open crevasse on our way to Camp II took more than an hour.
- Every step upward with our mammoth loads was an act of will.
- Most of our team reached the summit of the beautiful 21,000-foot Chopiqualqui in Peru's Cordierra Blanca.